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Thank You!!
About Us
3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue, Inc. is an all volunteer non-profit
organization dependent on donations to help us rescue unwanted
domestic rabbits and educate the public on rabbit care. We are a network of
foster homes located in New England and New York.
3 BUNNIES ADOPTS TO INDOOR HOMES ONLY!!
Adoption donations: (to help with spay/neuter and other expenses)
$70 single
$120 pair
Online adoption application
The primary goals of 3 Bunnies are:
-
To rescue abandoned,
unwanted, and abused rabbits without prejudice to age, gender, breed,
type, or other issues; to provide foster care; to spay and neuter; to
provide medical and rehabilitative care; to find permanent quality
indoor homes for them;
-
To educate the public and assist humane societies, animal control
officers, and other rescues, in teaching proper rabbit care to the
public;
-
To reduce, primarily by public education, the number of rabbits
abandoned at shelters and / or turned loose when no longer wanted.
3 Bunnies Rabbit Rescue, Inc
P.O. Box 380605
East Hartford, CT 06138-0605
USA
info@3bunnies.org
Daves's Soda & Pet City
Come visit Dave's Soda & Pet City
151 Springfield St
Agawam, MA 01001
Dave's graciously helps promote rabbit adoption by supporting 3
Bunnies Rabbit Rescue, Inc.'s efforts to save rabbits in need and
find them loving adoptive indoor homes.
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Litterbox Training
Health
Articles
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Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least twice a day!!
© David L. Fisher
Please give your bunny a choice between a water bottle and a
heavy ceramic water bowl (one heavy enough that it won't get tipped
over). Most bunnies actually prefer drinking from a bowl. If you
prefer bottled water to your tap water, please share it with your
bunny too. If your bunny uses a water bowl, check it often to make
sure it is still drinkable (there may be food, fur, or other foreign
matter in the water, or it may have been spilled). If using a water
bottle, check it often to make sure water still flows easily and that
the bunny can comfortably drink from it.
Important note on cleaning water bowls:
Studies on the re-use of water bottles by people seeking to reduce the
amount of recycled plastic or simple convenience showed that almost
all re-used water bottles that were never cleaned and dried showed
major amounts of bacteria and in some cases the growth of fungal
colonies. You should clean your bunnies' water bowl regularly to prevent
the growth of bacteria and/or fungal colonies, which can begin when
the water bowl is always filled but never cleaned. Warm soapy water is
all that is required, on a regular basis. If you can, let it dry and
offer a different water bowl for that period of time.
Bacteria live by the rule "they dry, they die".
The proper food will keep your bunnies happy and healthy for a long
time. You must provide the following to maintain a proper diet for
your bunnies:
-
unlimited timothy hay or other
grass hay (see note below about alfalfa).
Hay should be the primary food source for rabbits, except alfalfa and
straw, which has no health benefits, although it may make for a
litterbox liner. Since bunnies like to munch when they poop (or is it
poop when they munch), grass hay should also be part of their
litterbox accommodations. Please also refer to this
Wiki page
for more information.
Note about alfalfa: Athough it i widely referred to
as hay, it is not really a grass. It's in the
legume family with clover, vetch, peanuts, peas, and beans. Legumes
are much higher in protein than grasses. More protein equals more
calories equals fat bunny. It should only be given as a treat to
adults, although it can be offered you growing rabbits or those that
need to gain weight.
It is also higher in
calcium).
Please see this page for more information:
http://www.fsa.usda.gov/haynet/.
-
a variety of at least 3 green vegetables
(see list below) - this should be three different types of greens, i.e.
not 3 different lettuces; parsley and cilantro are the same type of green,
etc. At least one of these greens should be a source of vitamin A.
If your rabbit has never had greens before, introduce them one at
a time and watch for
runny stool.
Any time you notice it, make sure your bunny's bottom is clean (you
may have to give him a
butt bath),
and remove that green from that rabbit's diet. If your rabbit gets
runny stool from any greens, it may be due to improper care
from his life before he came into yours. Greens are not absolutely
necessary, only fresh hay is, so if your rabbit cannot handle any
greens at all, make sure he eats a lot of hay.
-
some pellets (depending on bunny's age) -
pellets should not be the primary food source for rabbits.
-
a small amount of fruit and treats - too
much
sugar in any form can cause digestive problems
with bunnies, and can also make other problems worse by providing an
environment where bacteria and even cancer can thrive
- fresh water (and the same water you would drink, so if your tap
water tastes bad, be nice to your bunnies and don't make them drink it
either!)
Do not let your bunny dictate what foods to give. Bunnies will eat
foods that taste really good to them but are really bad for them.
They don't understand proper bunny nutrition - that is up to you, in
order for your bunnies to live long healthy lives. If you need to
change your bunny's diet, introduce new foods gradually and watch for
any adverse effects. For example, if you need to switch pellets,
offer a mix of the old kind of pellets with the new kind of pellets
for a week or two, before just offering the new kind.
Adult rabbits should only be given a limited amount of pellets, but an
unlimited amount of hay for the fiber and to help grind down the
ever-growing front teeth. When rabbits are fed too much pelleted food,
they will fill up on that and not get enough hay and grasses in their
diet.
Alfalfa pellets and hay are good for growing bunnies and those that
need to gain weight, but most adults and all overweight rabbits should
be on a diet of Timothy hay (unlimited) and
some pellets (restricted) (consult your veterinarian)
only. Some of the best Timothy-based pellets are:
If your bunny gets
runny stool,
you should take away the greens and
fruit and encourage the bunny to eat as much hay as possible - you may
also need to restrict pellets in order to accomplish this. If one of
the greens is causing a problem, you can try to find out which one it
is by re-introducing greens one at a time until the bunny has a
problem again.
Note: Always check the ingredients in your rabbit pellets!!
You would be surprised what kinds of stuff companies use in making
these pellets, and some of the ingredients are actually very bad for
your bunny. (Still compiling a list of ingredients to be aware of)
Please also see this page from the ASPCA regarding common fruits and
the dangers they present to bunnies:
Strange Fruit: Seasonal Produce That Can Harm Your Pets
Note: one of the easiest ways to thoroughly wash a lot of greens at
once is, fill a soup pot with water and some lemon juice, put all the
greens in and agitate it with your hands for a few seconds, then put
the greens on something where all the excess water can drain. Afterwards,
put the greens on a towel to allow further drying so they will last longer
in storage (use the greens drawer in your refrigerator, sometimes called
the crisper).
Another option is to cut up all of the greens at the outset, when they
are dry (prior to cleaning) IF you intend on washing and soaking the greens
before giving them to the rabbits anyway - you can do the washing at
that time and rinse thoroughly and serve.
The problem with a pellet-only diet
It is important to note that pellets were originally intended for
making it easier to feed rabbits that were meant for the dinner
plate, and little thought was given to longer-term care. Modern
high-quality pellets are better, but rabbits still need much more than
just pellets, and the pellets must be properly selected.
They are far from an ideal food for a pet rabbit, and should
only be fed in limited quantities with healthy adult rabbits:
The problem with calcium:
Please also see the section on calcium
in the litterbox for indications of buildup of any kind. After all, everyone knows,
everybody poops!
A listing of foods that are high in calcium is in the list of
foods to feed in small quantities.
-
Bladder and/or kidney stones
-
Bladder sand or sludge - the bladder fills with a thick, calcium-rich urine that
also lines the urinaty tract and is an irritant and also a painful
condition to endure. The bladder always feels full and the rabbit has
difficulty urinating.
- passing sludge/sand can lead to a
urinary
tract infection
- the inability to fully empty the bladder may make the rabbit
"leak" urine from an continually full bladder, and this can lead to
urine scald
- it makes it very difficult and eventually very painful for the
rabbit to urinate, and they will
strain
more and more in the litterbox
- you can't just remove all calcium from a rabbit's diet to avoid
this issue because then his body will absorb
whatever calcium it needs from the bones and the
rabbit will become extremely fragile as the skeleton
is weakoned due to the lack of calcium
- treatment options are not pleasant - if it's serious
enough, the bladder must either be flushed with a
catheter, or surgery may be necessary.
- chalky
residue in the litterbox, a definite indicator of
mineral-rich urine (sometimes it hardens to the point
where you can't easily scrape it off) is not, by
itself, an
indication of build-up - it may simply be normal
elimination of the excess calcium so that it
doesn't accumulate in the bladder, so the only
real way to determine if there is an issue is an
x-ray. Calcium is a metal and shows up light in an
x-ray, so it's very easy to see when a rabbit is
suffering from a calcium-lined urinary tract.
Some things you can do to try to influence any calcium build-up that
you suspect is to offer some of the following. We offer these
suggestions as nothing more than folk-lore home remedies as a
precursor to seeing the vet if the condition doesn't improve:
- Water spiked with some cranberry juice (a natural diuretic) - but
do NOT make this the only water you offer, or your bunny may become
dehydrated if he doesn't like the spiked water
- Add pepitas (shelled, unsalted pumpkin seeds) to their food or if
they like them, offer them as treats
- Polycitra - the active ingredients are citric acid monohydrate,
potassium citrate monohydrate, and sodium citrate dihydrate. It is
administered 3 times a day, which can be stressful on both you and
your bunny. You must get a prescription and your vet's advice to use
this product.
Note: for more information on calcium content in foods, please follow the following links:
The problem with sugar
This is true for any mammal - sugar can cause the body to retain
fats and it lowers the oxygen levels, creating environments for the thriving
growth of bacteria and even cancer. If the rabbit has gas,
sugar will make matters worse.
- Rabbits, in general, can have about a tablespoon of food or treats
such as raisins each day; some cannot tolerate any sugar in their
diets and will get
runny stool.
Rabbits have a sweet tooth, so you must be careful not to overfeed
sugar to them in any form.
- A rabbit will eat sugary foods in favor of more proper foods,
thus negatively affecting their overall diet
- more coming soon...!!
The problem with gas
Have you ever had a really bad stomach ache? Gas causes that
with rabbits too, and it is very painful to them. They can have
problems passing gas which can lead to severe pain and a
life-threatening situation. You can help.
First, get to know what your rabbit's stomach feels like when he feels
fine, and you'll be able to guage how far from normal he might be.
You can also treat the rabbit any time you suspect gas with
simethicone
(infant anti-gas drops contain this ingredient).
Simethicone is not actually a drug, it is a surfactant/defoaming agent
- instead of working via chemical reaction, it breaks down the surface
tension of gas bubbles embedded in mucus in the GI tract. As surface
tension is altered, the gas bubbles are broken or coalesced so that
the gas can be eliminated more easily by the body.
It does not interact with any
medications and is not at all harmful even if used when it wasn't
necessary afterall. Besides treating with simethicone,
you should also very gently massage the stomach towards the rear end
in the hope of gently pushing the gas through the system. Rabbits
many times have difficulty passing gas and can run into trouble if not
for attentive caretakers. When gas is an issue, a farting bunny is a
happy bunny.
If both the simethicone and massage have
failed, it's time to call
the vet.
Some of the indicators of a gas episode are:
- loud gurgling noises coming from the gut
- signs of discomfort or lethargy
- loss of appetite
- sitting hunched over (sort of the same as how people hunch over
when they have really bad stomach aches) or pressing their stomachs
against something
- abnormally tight stomach
- abnormal posture
Note: these lists may not be as complete as they need to be, so a strong caveat to the reader - when in doubt, call your vet!!
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Pellets
Please see the problem with pellets to
understand the issues with a pellet-only diet.
- Do not get the pellets with seeds and banana chips and such in it - it is a treat to the bunnies but it isn't
healthy and can cause stomach problems. Unfortunately, some
manufacturers refuse to accept this and market what looks, to a
human, like a really nice dinner for their rabbit, but in fact it
is bad for them. Pellets are not even the most important part of a
rabbit's diet (hay is), but care should be given not to offer
pellets that are bad for the rabbits, or that have treats that are
bad for the rabbits mixed in.
- Pellets can go stale just like bread and become
unappealing to the bunny's pallate, so store unused
pellets in an air-tight container, preferably in the
refrigerator.
- If you get a large quantity of pellets, the best way
to store it is to separate it into smaller sealed
containers (ie, ziplock bags) and store them all in
the refrigerator, and only open one at a time to get
food from. The unopened ones will stay fresh much
longer. Do not store in the freezer as this can cause the
small amount of moisture in the pellets to ruin the
food (as water crystallizes, it expands
and forms sharp edges which break the cell walls of other materials)
Oxygen is the most corrosive element there is - it reacts with pretty much everything - every time you open a container, you introduce fresh air (wich contains approximately 20% new oxygen) to be used in the chemical reactions that spoil food. Using smaller bags and pressing out as much air as possible, and only opening one at a time, means that all the unopened bags will use up the available oxygen and degradation will slowed dramatically, keeping the food fresher for longer.
- Typically you can allow a healthy growing bunny to
free-feed on pellets (he can eat as much as he wants)
- The most common recommendation we hear for healthy
adult rabbits (that do not need to gain weight) is
that they should only have about 1/4 cup of timthy
pellets per 5 pounds of bunny
- If your rabbit shows any signs of stomach problems,
such as runny stool, take away the pellets and veggies and feed plenty of timothy
hay and contact your vet
- For healthy adult rabbits, Some recommended timothy based pellets are
Sweet Meadow Farm Timothy and
Oxbow Bunny Basics/Timothy,
both of which are ideal for adult rabbits that do not need extra calcium or calories.
For underweight or growing rabbits, some recommended alfalfa-based
pellets are
Blue Seal Show Hutch Deluxe,
(this is an alfalfa-based pellet but it is cooked and much lighter than other pellets),
Purina Rabbit Chow, and Martin Rabbit Pellets.
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The following greens may be given to your rabbits
(make sure there are no pesticides and wash thoroughly):
Note on lettuces:
Lettuce contains a chemical called lactucarium, which is a depressant
and is known to cause diahrrea - see the
Wikipedia
for detailed information. Also, darker green leaves typically have
more nutrients and are less likely to contribute to
runny stool.
- Alfalfa sprouts
- Apple Mint
- Arugula
- Basil
- Beet Greens
- Bok Choy (Chinese cabbage)
- Brussels sprouts
- Celery (especially the leaf) (Note: to avoid any
potential problems, slice or chop the celery against
the grain so the veins aren't stringy - veins can be
swallowed without proper chewing and can cause serious
gastrointestinal problems)
- Chard
- Cilantro (no roots)
- Clover & clover sprouts
- Collard greens
- Dandelion greens & flowers
- Dill
- Endive
- Escarole
- Fennel
- Green pepper
- Lettuce: romaine (only limited amounts, may cause
excess cecals), green leaf, red leaf (limited
iceberg and light green lettucs generally, as they may cause
soft stool in some bunnies and generally have less
nutrients than the darker greens))
- Mint
- Peapods (flat)
- Peppermint leaves
- Pineapple-mint
- Pineapple-sage
- Radicchio
- Radish sprouts & tops
- Raspberry leaves
- Sweet potatoes
- Turnip greens (tops)
- Watercress
- Wheat grass
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Foods to feed only in small quantities:
Please also see
the problem with pellets
and
the problem with calcium.
- Broccoli leaves and stems (Note: broccoli can cause
gas in some bunnies, and it is high in
so it should not be given to bunnies who have any
urinary tract problems, such as bladder sludge)
- Broccoli (high in calcium, also may cause gas)
- Carrots (high sugar content)
- Carrot tops (high calcium)
- Kale (high in calcium, also may cause gas)
- Mustard greens (high calcium)
- Parsley (high calcium)
- Spinach (high in calcium)
- There's more to come!!...
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Some tips on keeping and serving greens:
- Always wash veggies thoroughly and dry before storing, and it doesn't
hurt to wash them just before feeding and serve them soaked - the fluids
are always helpful
- Get rid of any part of the greens you wouldn't eat (browned, wilted, etc)
- Serve greens nice and wet to help with hydration and
prevention of urinary tract problems
- To revitalize wilted greens, soak in water for a few
hours
- Storing a paper towel in the bag with the greens helps
absord moisture to prevent rotting
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The following fruits may be fed to your rabbit in small quantities
(due to their sugar content) as treats (no more
than 1-2 tablespoons each day):
Note: although fresh is best, in most cases you can also get frozen or dried
versions of these fruits; if dried, please check the ingredients and make sure they
are not sweetened with sugar, corn syrup, etc.
- Apple
- Banana
- Blueberry
- Cranberry
- Grape
- Melon
- Papaya
- Peach
- Pear
- Plum
- Pineapple
- Pumpkin
- Raisin
- Raspberry
- Strawberries
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Foods to avoid feeding your rabbit:
- Beets (sugary)
- Breakfast cereals
- Chocolate (NEVER give this to any pet - it is
poisonous to most)
- Corn (rabbits can't digest the hulls of the corn
kernels)
-
Diatomaceous Earth -
this is made from finely ground
shells, and even the highest quality can have edges
which act like razor blades against the thin lining of
a rabbits stomach lining. Do not use for food or
litter.
- Fresh peas
- Grains
- Green beans (can cause gas)
- Iceberg lettuce (and any light green lettuce leaves -
they are high in water content but low in nutrients
and may cause diahrrea) - can be gven in small amounts
or when you have no other greens to offer, but watch
the output for soft stools
- Legumes
- Nuts
- Onions (see this
page)
- Pelleted food with seeds mixed in (it's a treat to the
bunnies but
the seeds cause stomach problems)
- Potatoes (white or red)
- Seeds of any kind
- Starches of any kind
- sugar, in any form (small quantities of treats are allowed, but no more than a tablespoon of fruit or raisins or anything containing any types of sugar)
Foods that contain compounds that destroy nutrients:
- Sweet potato
- Cassava
- Bamboo shoots
- Maize
- Lima beans
- Millet
- Bracken fern
- Tea leaves
- Coffee plants
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Foods that are toxic to rabbits:
Note: do not allow your rabbit to eat dried leaves
from any trees - too many types are very toxic and
some can cause cyanide poisoning (this includes
specifically apple tree leaves, oak leaves, maple
leaves, etc). If you allow your rabbit an outdoor
run, please clear the area of leaves as the rabbit may
find them very tasty, but they are very dangerous!!
(see also this page on cyanide poisoning)
- Generally toxic:
- Rhubarb leaves
- Raw lima, kidney or soy beans
- Onions
- Citrus peels
- Oxalates
(causes pain and swelling of mouth and throat, swollen tissue can
restrict breathing or cause suffocation.)
- Begonia
- Caladium
- Calla lily
- Diffenbachia
- Dumbcane
- Jack in the pulpit
- Philodendron
- Schefflera
- Minor Toxicities (causes vomiting, diarrhea, nausea)
- Aloe vera
- Amaryllis
- Bird of paradise
- Birch
- Boxwood
- Cedar
- Chrysanthemum
- Daffodil
- Daisy
- Eucalyptus
- Galiola
- Hydrangea
- Haycinth
- Iris
- Juniper
- Redwood tree
- Rananculus
- Sweet pea
- Swwet william
- Violas
- Extremely Toxic (one leaf can kill)
- Angels Trumpet
- Azalea
- Black Acacia and Locast
- Bleeding Heart
- Carmellia
- Carnation
- Carolinia Jasmine
- Castor Beans
- Christmas Beans
- China Berry
- Clementis
- Coffee Tree Plant
- Cyclamen
- Daphne
- Delphinium
- Easter Lily
- Elderberry
- Flax
- Four-o-clocks
- Geranium
- Heavenly Bamboo
- Hemlock
- Holly Berries
- Ivy
- Jerusalem cherry
- Lantana
- Larkspur
- Licorice plant
- Lily of the valley
- Lobelia
- Milkvetch
- Monkshood
- Morning glory
- Mountain laurel
- Narcissus
- NightshadeLoeander
- Pea family
- Pig weed
- Potato plant
- Pivet
- Rhododendron
- String of pearls
- Thorn apple
- Toyon
- Vinca
- Wintergreen
- Wisteria
- Tew
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